Monday, September 20, 2010

Please give us a new home

Allee (5) and Abbee (2) are still waiting for their forever home. The two girls have been overlooked because they are not very good with other ferrets, but these two would make excellent ferrets for first time owners. Allee is more scared of other ferrets than she is aggressive, and Abbee could perhaps learn to live with other ferrets with the proper introduction; neither had been socialized prior to entering our care. Despite not being great with other ferrets, Allee and Abbee are good with other animals and real dolls.

Allee, the cinnamon, is the older of the two, and her age has made her a huge cuddle bug. She loves climbing onto laps and curling up with her foster family. Abbee, the sable, is the more playful of the two. She is still quite cuddly compared to many other ferrets, but is more likely to want a game with her family than a cuddle. She is so full of life that anyone who visits the ferrets cannot help but laugh at her antics.

The two were from a home that could not keep them anymore and did not have time for them, so we would really love for them to go to a home that will spoil them rotten; after all, they deserve to be the 'apples of someone's eye' at least once in their lives. If you are interested in giving Allee and Abbee the home that they deserve, please visit adopt.ferretsnorth.org and fill out an adoption application. If you have any questions about the pair, please e-mail us at info@ferretsnorth.org

***UPDATE: October 29, 2010*** Allee and Abbee have finally found their forever home =)

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Smelly Weasels!

How to deal with the musky ferret smell...

Ferrets smell. It is true. All of our beloved companion animals have a distinctive odor - dogs, rats, cats. These odors cannot be washed away and are created by scent glands located throughout the animal's body. De scenting, contrary to popular belief, does not change the ferret's day to day odor. De scenting does nothing more than remove the rarely used scent glands which enable a ferret to release a poof of strong, oily musk when frightened. The simple reality is that if you cannot tolerate the smell of the animal, don't get the animal. Having said that, there are ways to minimize the odors associated with your pet...Here are some tips to reduce the musky odor that follows your pet ferret.
1) Change blankets regularly. Provide new fuzzy blankets and hammocks at least once a week; ferret bedding gathers oils and ferret smells quite quickly and can contribute to the overall smell of the animal.
2) Wash all bedding wish laundry soap AND baking soda. The baking soda helps neutralize ferrety odor.
3) Bathe them less frequently. Yes, this sounds counter-intuitive, but keep in mind that when you wash the ferret, you strip their skin of natural oils. The skin must work overtime to replenish the oils and so your newly bathed ferret smells more rather than less ferrety.
4) Wash the cage thoroughly once a week with soap and water. This helps wash the ferret's natural oils off of the cage. Washing the walls just behind the cage can help decrease odor as well.
5) If your ferrets have a room, wash the floor when you wash the cage. Ferrets are oily little animals and most likely have spread their oil all over the floor as well.
6) Scoop litters nightly and wash pans weekly with soap and water.
7) Adding a small amount of baking soda to the bottom of the pan (under the litter) can help absorb unpleasant litter box odors.
8) Keep food containers properly closed. Kibble does smell... ok, its not a ferrety smell, but it is not a pleasant one! This one has an added benefit as most ferrets prefer fresh food anyways!

One more thing to keep in mind: ferrets, when in a new location, do tend to turn up the smell, so if you have just gotten your first ferret and are wondering about the smell that did not some quite so potent in the pet store or at the shelter or foster home don't worry, once they have relaxed a bit, they will not smell as strongly.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Ferret (mis) information pamphlets

Many pet stores have pamphlets to hand out to those who are curious about or who have recently purchased a pet. Most people assume that the information contained in these pamphlets is reliable and helpful. Unfortunately, this is not always the case, with some containing advise that is not only unhelpful, but could very well create a negative relationship between the pet and their new owner.

The most reliable and helpful ferret pamphlet that I have come across is, strangely, the one distributed by Petland Canada. The pamphlet was sparse in information, but did not contain any extremely false, misguided recommendations. I must admit, I was pleasantly surprised.

Path Valley distributes a pamphlet with the purchase of their kits which contains some decent information, but has one bit of dangerous advice: it tells new owners to flick the noses of the baby ferrets in order to nip train. While this advice may have been considered decent at one time, nose flicking has been shown to potentially foster negative relationships between the ferret and their owner, encourage aggression and even injure the animal (ferret's delicate nasal cavities can be damaged by flicking).

The worst pamphlet that I have found about ferrets, however, is one that I found at Pet Habitat in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia. This pamphlet is so bad that it is potentially dangerous to the welfare of the animal.

To be fair, the pamphlet does have a little bit of good advice. We will begin this rant by getting this short section out of the way.
1) It says that ferrets are social, so more than one is best, and that they play bite each other.
2) They say that ferrets do have a musky odor and should not be bathed too often.
3) It advises you to baby proof your home.
4) It informs new owners that ferrets require regular visits to the veterinarian for checkups.
5) It says that wire cages are best (rather than aquariums) and that bigger is better
6) The pamphlet tells us that ferrets are meat based carnivores

And now for the bad...
1) Key Points on the back page tell us not to point to ferrets as they will bite you for pointing (this, it claims, is due to their poor eyesight)... in reality: There is no truth to this statement.
2) More than one is best... TRUE, but the pamphlet goes on to state that you should not get another ferret until the first has calmed down. In reality, having more than one ferret, and letting them play, will tire them out faster, making them easier for new owners to handle and nip train.
3) Don't bathe ferrets to often... TRUE, but monthly bathing is not necessary and will not "keep them fresh"... infrequent baths are best as ferrets are always smellier following the bath; their skin needs to replenish the oils that have been washed away. Ferret cologne does not get rid of the natural musky ferret smell, but rather tends to create a very bizarre and often overpowering blend of the smells.
4) Once ferrets have been calmed down, you can let them play with other animals... In reality, there is no such thing as a CALMED DOWN playful ferret. In reality, ferrets should not be allowed to play with small animals as they cannot tolerate rough play. Play with cats and dogs should be supervised, but primarily to avoid harm to the ferret. Ferrets play rough, always.

The Manager's note...
It advises new owners to leave the ferret be for the first two days, then begin to stroke it and only handle it once it stops turning to look at your hand... OK, so REALITY CHECK: training a baby ferret is like training a puppy, not a hamster... if you leave it in the cage, alone, for two days it will go nuts when you try to handle it because ferrets need constant stimulation. Letting the baby ferret out in a FERRET PROOF room letting it sniff, then throwing toys for it, or wrestling with it (wearing a thick puppet or using a large stuffed animal) will help create a bond between the ferret and the owner and tire the little ferret out. Once the ferret is tired, the owner can handle it and stroke it. This good handling behaviour can be encouraged with treats such as ferretone. If the ferret does nip, then a scruff and no is recommended. The note also mentions TAMING your ferret. This is a term that irks me as it implies that the ferret is a wild animal. In reality, you do not tame a ferret anymore than you would tame a puppy. You can NIP TRAIN a ferret, but you are not taming an animal that cannot be wild.

Inside the pamphlet...
1) Marshall Ferret food is what your ferret should eat... in reality, it is one option, but there are many, many better high quality ferret and cat/kitten foods which are more suited to the ferret's nutritional requirements
2) Ornabac must be fed to the animal when it is young to prevent wet tail. This is just DANGEROUS advice. Ferrets, like kittens, do not get wet tail. Feeding them a pro-biotic designed for grain eating small animals could lead to future health problems.
3) Water bowls are not recommended for ferrets as they tend to fill them with shavings. Ferrets should NEVER be housed on shavings as shavings have been attributed to respiratory problems and even lung cancer. Personally, I find that parrot bowls which can be secured to the side of the cage work best as they cannot be tipped, and the ferret can dunk its head in the bowl for fun if it wishes. Water bottles can be used, but as they tend to leak, they should be used in conjunction with a water dish (which will catch the drips)
4) Ferretvite is needed as a daily supplement. NOT IF YOU HAVE PROPER FOOD, though the tube can be used as a treat, or as a nutrional device if your ferret is recovering from surgery or getting over a flu.
5) Small puppy pens are not a substitute for an area to run; they are often too small to give the animal adequate exercise and will not give your ferret sufficient stimulation. Additionally ferrets can scale most puppy pens, or squeeze through the gaps in the bars. One final note on the puppy pen statement: ferrets should be out for a minimum of 4 hours, not 2, especially when they are young.

And those are the most glaring corrections. I will send these amendments to Pet Habitat for their ferret pamphlet, and it would be nice if it was corrected, but I doubt somehow that it will be...

If anybody else finds terrible pamphlets, feel free to comment and tell us what the pamphlet said, and where it was from!!!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Ferret hidey hole

Ever felt overwhelmed by the world? Like there was just too much going on and you needed to get away? Hide on a safe, cozy spot alone and just watch the world go past, safe and sound? We if you have, chances are that your fuzzy has too! This is a great idea from the book "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling (Third Edition) -- it is a ferret hidey hole/ escape box that is inexpensive, easy to make and offers your pet a quiet, solitary sleeping spot. It can also double as a fun toy! I found that, at times, my smallest ferret would get a bit overwhelmed by her big brothers and needed a place to escape to. We created a ferret hidey hole to offer her some relief.

To make this hidey hole, you need:
  • 1 small rubbermaid container
  • 2 pieces of PVC or similar piping (with smooth edges - you want the piping to be slightly larger than your ferret, but still small enough that your ferret will be able to keep other ferrets out with ease; the pieces should also fasten together with relative ease)
  • 1 Sharpie or similar permanent marker
  • Some blankets
  • a large utility knife or sturdy, non serrated kitchen knife
  • a tub of HOT water
Trace the outline of the piping onto the rubbermaid container. Soak the container (cutting side immersed) in really hot water for approximately 20 minutes. Once the plastic has softened, take your knife and cut the hole for your PVC piping. Be sure to cut the hole slightly smaller than the piping to ensure a snug fit. Once the hole is cut, place the container (hole immersed) back in hot water for about 5-10 minutes to soften the plastic again. Get your piping ready. Remove the container and gently push one side of the pipe through. Fasten in the middle and let the plastic cool. Once the container has cooled and dry, add your soft blankies, put the lid on and let your ferret explore it!

Friday, September 3, 2010

Walk this way: Hidden dangers


Before you finally take your pet out, here is a list of things to watch out for and keep in mind

1) Ferrets can and will slip their harness. If they become startled, pick them up and calm them down. If you notice that they are attempting to take their harness off, pick them up and calm them down. If your ferret manages to get away, launch a search party and follow these steps to try and find it. Remember: a lost ferret is most likely a dead ferret.

2) End the outing on their terms - they are small animals with short legs and infinite curiosity. Learn to read their signals - they will always let you know when they've had enough and need to be carried or want to go home.

3) Beware of strange dogs. Never let a strange dog near your ferret - you do not know how the dog will react.

4) Watch for objects, such as gum, that ferrets may wish to put in their mouths. You don't want a walk to end with a trip to the emergency!

5) Avoid hot weather. Hot sidewalks can burn small feet and ferrets are extremely susceptible to hyperthermia. For more tips on ferrets and hot weather, click here

6) Be careful around shrubs, dense bushes and other things that obscure your view of your ferret and allow them to become snagged.

7) Stranger Danger is real! If someone approaches your ferret, pick the animal up. If the ferret is reasonably calm, offer the stranger the ferret's back to pet, and instruct them to pet the ferret gently. Do not let strangers grab at your ferret on the ground, or rush it - these behaviours can lead to a startled nip and wind up costing your ferret its life.

If you can think of hidden dangers not listed above, please let us know =)
Have fun taking you pet on adventures.