The "no bite" hold

Now that you all know how to scruff, here is a slightly more complicated ferret grip. This method of holding ferrets - the "no bite" hold is useful when handling kits or biting ferrets. If done properly, ferrets in this grip will have a very hard time biting you. Though it is not an ideal every day handling technique, this hold is extremely useful when teaching new ferrets that you will not hurt them while preventing the ferret from hurting you. Remember, when using this hold on a new ferret - whether it's a kit, fear biter or a ferret that hasn't been taught manners - it is important to treat the animal, pet it and speak to it gently to reinforce the idea that you are not a source of fear and discomfort.

Step 1:
Get a ferret. Cola was strangely unavailable when it was time to photograph this hold, so we had to make do with Casper. Say his to Casper.

Step 2: Star by scruffing this ferret - this will enable you to position your hands properly while attempting the grip. The more experience you have, the more rapidly you will be able to put a ferret in the "no bite" grip. To learn how to scruff a ferret, click here. This is what a scruffed ferret looks like. Again, scruffing the ferret does not cause the animal any discomfort.

Step 3: Wrap you fingers around the ferrets neck and torso. This part is a bit tough to explain. What you need to do is have a paw trapped between your thumb and first finger to protect your wrist - the ferret will not bite you through his or her own paw!
The rest of your fingers should be wrapped around the ferret's neck.


Step 4: Once you are confident that you have a good grasp on the ferret, release the scruff and use your free hand to begin petting and giving treats to the ferret. Use this time to establish some trust. As you can see, when done properly this grip does not cause the ferret any discomfort.
One final tip: Be sure to keep each handling experience short and sweet!

Helping Fear Biters

Every so often, ferret lovers and future owners stumble across a ferret that has learned to fear people. Fearful ferrets may run and hide, fluff up, cringe, become stiff when handled and even bite their new owners. Fortunately, with some time, patience and positive reinforcement, fearful ferrets can be rehabilitated.
Before beginning to teach your new ferret that you are his friend and not his enemy, it is important to put yourself in his 'shoes'. Consider the fact that this ferret has been handled roughly and possibly even abused by creatures more than 100 times bigger then them, that these giant creatures were sources of pain, discomfort and suffering, and that the ferret has no reason to believe that you will be any different.

Here are some basic tips for helping you rehabilitate your fearful ferret:

1) Let him get settled in. Offer your new ferret some food, water and toys and leave him be for the rest of that day - chances are that he is freaked out enough by all the changes.

2)Be gentle, calm and quiet. Do not make loud noises or sudden movements while handling your ferret. Speak to him gently and in a friendly tone, similar to the one that you would use to soothe a baby.

3) If he will take treats, feed him treats when you pick him up, this way he learns that you = treats rather than pain. Most ferrets enjoy oil - Salmon Oil or Ferretone - as a treat. If the ferret has never tried oils before, placing a small squirt on a plate and leaving it out for the ferret to sample at his own pace would be recommended. If you are able, putting some ON the ferret (gently) to encourage him to clean it off should give him the opportunity to taste the oil. Oil is a particularly useful treat because it encourages LICKING instead of BITING which can come in handy later.

4) If he bites out of fear, be prepared for the bites to be hard and try to avoid them. Do not take the bites personally. Remember - he thinks that he is fighting for his life.

5) When on the receiving end of a bite, a pitiful "OW" will be more effective than a harsh "OW! NO!" Nose flicking or similar aggressive behaviours will reinforce the ferret's perception that humans are bad and should be avoided.

6) If he hides from you, go over to the hiding place and speak gently to him. Do not attempt to grab him or remove him from the hiding place unless you absolutely need to.

7) Let him out to play. He will be tough to get back into his cage, this is true, but ferrets need at least four hours of out time a day. Play time is something that many ferrets that come from abusive situations have never experienced before and this ability to run around without violent encounters may help the ferret realize that you will not harm him. It is also a good opportunity for him to see you play with (and not harm) your other ferrets or other pets in your household.

8) If your ferret is a fear biter, use the "no bite grip" while gently talking to him and petting him. Hold him in this manner for no more than a few minutes at a time when he is new and gradually increase the time as he begins to learn that you will not harm him. *If the ferret is injured or the no bite grip cannot be used, gloves can be used as a substitute. It is important to bear in mind, however, that gloves can make the prospect of being held even more frightening to a fearful ferret.

9) Hang out in the same area as the ferret (in a quiet part of the home) so that he has the chance to get used to your presence. These are not interaction opportunities (unless the ferret approaches you, you largely ignore him; you can chat with him a bit if you like, but do not reach for him). This allows the ferret to get used to your smell and presence in a non-threatening way, and at his own pace.

10) Gradually increase handling time using the no bite-hold. Doing so while offering treats or after a nice, big snack might be a good idea. If the ferret manages to grab your hand, do not release him immediately - you don't want him to associate BITE = FREE. Instead keep your cool and hold him for a count of five after the bite.

Rehabilitation does take a lot of time and patience and remember, not all of the above approaches work for every ferret - it is best to try a few different techniques and figure out what works for your new ferret. If you feel as though rehabilitating the fearful ferret is too much to handle, consider taking him to a local ferret specific shelter or rescue; ferret shelters and rescues often have more experienced owners capable of dealing with the issue.

Good Luck!

Problem Biters: Reasons behind the behaviour

Ferrets rarely bite without reason. They may bite because they are afraid, they are trying to tell you that they are in pain or uncomfortable, they have never been taught how to play nicely with people, biting has gotten them what they have wanted in the past or because they are responding to a trigger.
In order to figure out the best way to deal with the ferret biting, you must first figure out WHY is it biting.

REASONS FOR BITING

1)PLAY
If the animal bounces at you with its mouth open, war dances and bites you, he or she is attempting to play (to see a ferret playing, click here) and doesn't understand that people skin is not as strong as ferret skin. For instructions on how to teach your ferret how to play nicely, click here.

2)ALWAYS WORKED BEFORE
If your ferret bites you when you are holding him and he wants down, when you are cutting his nails and wants you to stop, when he wants you to pick him up or acknowledge him, he has learned that biting is a good way to get what he wants. You must take care not to reinforce his behaviour (for example, if he bites to get your attention, walk away and ignore him for a few seconds before giving him your attention, if you are holding him, continue to hold him for a few seconds after the bite or place him in a time out kennel for a few seconds, then pick him up again... you get the picture! For more tips, click here.). It is also important to reinforce good behaviour with treats and attention. If, for example, you ferret taps you on the leg instead of biting you, drop what you are doing and give them attention and/ or treats - this reinforces the positive behaviour (not biting).

3)TRIGGERS
Triggers are something which causes the ferret to become incredibly aggravated and lash out. Triggers are generally loud noises such as a dog barking, vacuum or loud squeaky toy. I had one ferret that was set of by one person's high laugh. Not all ferrets have triggers, but if you notice that an otherwise friendly ferret bites only when a specific sounds is heard, odds are that your ferret has a trigger. Behaviour correction does not generally work for triggers - they are simply sounds that the ferret cannot tolerate, like fingers on a chalkboard to most people. Once the trigger sound has been isolated, it is best to avoid the noise if at all possible.

4) FEAR
Best described as the ferret lunging aggressively when cornered. Scared ferrets sometimes fluff themselves up have bottle brush tails. A scared ferret may lunge at you when you attempt to remove them from their cage or pick them up off the floor. If they are afraid for their lives, they may even screech at you. If your ferret is a fear biter, it has likely been mishandled at some point in its life. Fear biters have learned, through experience, that humans are the enemy and, if they give you the chance, you will hurt them. While working with a fear biter can be difficult, most, if not all can be rehabilitated and, once they have learned that you are not the enemy, they go on to make wonderful pets. For information on dealing with a fear biter, see the following blog.

5) PAIN
If a ferret feels uncomfortable or is in pain, it will let you know by telling you the only way that it can - with its teeth. A ferret suffering from an extremely severe flea or mite infestation or a really bad rash, infection or pus build up may bite to let you know that they are uncomfortable and that you should do something to remedy the situation. A ferret that is in pain may bite to let you know. To determine whether a ferret is in pain, look for the following symptoms: watery, squinting eyes, teeth grinding, a hunched posture, tenderness (flinching when touched in an area), they may be protective over a certain part of their body, and/or they may refuse food. A visit to the vet to isolate and fix the problem is essential. Generally, in these cases, once the pain or discomfort is gone, the ferret is more than friendly.

6) DOMINANCE
While this is rare, some ferrets will bite their owners to establish dominance over them. Generally this happens in situations where the ferret was a fear biter or a particularly bratty and nippy kit who bit their owner and had their owner display a lot of fear of the animal following the incident. In other words: the ferret was scared or playing and figured out that the owner was more scared and the ferret was, therefore, dominant over the big human ferret. These ferrets will generally bite to affirm their dominance and should be dealt with using a system of gentle correction. In this situation, it is important for the owner to get over their fear of the animal. If you cannot do this, you may want to consider surrendering the animal to a local ferret rescue with more experienced volunteers that can handle the situation. Generally, a "OW! NO!" followed by a scruff and drag (always gentle - remember, you want to teach the ferret that you are the boss, not that you are to be feared) and, if the ferret persists, a time out. Remember to be consistent with this approach and, as with the "it always worked before", do not give the ferret what it wants if it tries to get it by biting. Remember to reinforce good behaviour such as NOT biting with plenty of treats, toys and attention.

If you are having trouble figuring out why your ferret is biting, try to track the bites. Think that what happened around the time of the bite and what your reaction was. Visit the vet to rule out any potential health issues which could be causing the ferret to be uncomfortable or in pain. If you are absolutely stumped, contact your local ferret rescue - they may be able to give you some insight into the matter.Good Luck!